Thursday 31 May 2018

The Lloyd's Building

Lloyd's (or Lloyd's of London) is an insurance market that could lay claim to being the prime mover in creating the concept of insurance as is widely understood[1] and is named after a coffee house that was run by Edward Lloyd. The original coffee shop became a meeting point for those involved in the maritime trade and they came to share information about shipping which was used for offering insurance. Insurance is just about managing risk by pooling those risks so that it benefits more people. By pooling that risk, catastrophe can be more effectively managed. If 5% of 20 ships will sink, that might not seem so bad but if it happens to be your ship - you will take 100% of the loss. So, the effect of that risk is different if you have one of twenty total ships or if you have twenty ships yourself. Pooling that risk means that everyone pays a little bit more but nobody loses out entirely and as it is pretty random who that 5% will afflict, it seems like a low cost. So the financial risk is, effectively identical, but the real risk to individual participants is reduced.

Insurance works, but pooling risks only happens if you actually have multiple risks to pool and for that you needed people to be pooled together to be able to meet and strike these agreements. That happened at Lloyd's Coffee House - it was a prime example of the benefits of mixing people together.
Fast forward a few years, or a few centuries, to 1986 and a new building was completed for the market in the City of London. A building that split opinion and also, 25 years hence, became the youngest Grade I listed structure[2] in the UK. Why did it split opinion? Because that is what modern architecture does and this structure was very modern. Like the Pompidou Centre in Paris, this building was "inside-out".

In many ways, we have to think about what the purpose of a building is and Le Corbusier, famously, described homes as machines for living. If we think about it in that way, then it allows us to reassess what the purpose of components that make up a building are. At the most basic level, you need walls and a roof but that does not quite scale up when you have larger buildings with the requirements of infrastructure. Traditional buildings have external walls that do two things - structurally hold the building up and provide shelter from the elements. Walls can be load bearing or simply partitions and that is the difference in looking at the purpose of the walls. What if we split that responsibility out a little, you could have something else that was better at holding a building up and a separate something else that was better for providing shelter. Once you separate that out, you can start having load-bearing structures that don't need to look good as they are hidden away and facades that are better for the inhabitants - this gave us the glass skyscrapers with central cores. Glass lets light in and makes a nicer environment for those inside the building. Many traditionalists in the world of newspaper columns don't seem to think buildings are for anything other than looking at from afar, however, and so changes in technology are not always seen positively. What a central core also allowed was for all the "services" (such as lift cores, utility supply etc)to be put into that central core and then allowing the space between the glass frontage and the central core to be pretty open - giving large open spaces. This centralised load-bearing structure soon became the new tradition of building skyscrapers.

What, however, could we do if we could also move that central core outside the building to leave an open, unbroken space? The benefits of an unbroken, easily adaptable space were clear for tenants of a building and that is what drew Lloyd's to the vision given by Richard Rogers as he persuaded the decision makers over to his way of thinking. Another benefit of an approach like this, a sort of exoskeleton for a building, is that the maintenance of these previously hidden things is made much quicker and easier as a result of being accessible. Maybe most famously for the Lloyd's building, the lifts are placed outside the building and that just happens to afford great views of the City of London - I assume that this is a positive unintended consequence. Does the building work for the inhabitants? Over thirty years on, that answer seems to be a clear "yes" but you have to think of stakeholders and the external view of something is important in such a central location in one of the best-known cities in the world. Well, unsurprisingly, this has been a success too - it will never be a universally loved building but it is one that fewer and fewer people are against now.

I'm not that interested in architecture - not enough to write about anyway which seems an odd thing to say after a few hundred words about a building. The point, however, is about the idea of thinking of design in a new way. Taking a step back to see the purpose of a building rather than what had gone before it seems like a sensible way of approaching problems and maybe we should all try to get back to first principles every so often to appraise what we do. I am also a big fan of making things easily accessible to make changes to when required. At work, I do a fair amount of calculation models and it is always important that we can see what is going into those - the inputs have to be clear[3] and externalised so that you can change them easily. So that others can maintain them rather than hiding away the working components. Eventually, people get used to the look and it becomes a house style. That's what I have learned from Richard Rogers' groundbreaking building.

1. Although this may not, semi-famously, be all that well understood by some high ranking people in US politics such as Paul Ryan (amongst many, many other Republicans).
2. Listing structures in the UK involves giving the architecture certain types of protection and many owners would not like this to happen as it necessitates conservation which may not always be what the owner wants to do.
3. The Pompidou Centre, which came before the Lloyd's building, by Rogers and Renzo also externalised the structures but went one step further by colour coding the infrastructure lines to give clear indications how things worked. In some ways, like a diagram rather than real life.

Wednesday 23 May 2018

ロン丼牛ドン / London Gyudon 04: Machiya

Ramen has a sort of level of awareness in London at the moment stemming from a number of places that became popular enough to start mini-chains. One of those, and the branches I have seen often have queues outside, is Kanada-ya[1]. Unlike Yamagoya, they do not seem to have branched significantly from their ramen but Machiya is supposed to be run in the same vein as Kanada-ya but with different dishes. It could be said that Machiya is a return for Paul and myself as this is actually where we decided[2] on this project and it was as a result of gyudon here. My abiding memory of that meal[3], however, was not the meat but the baked sweet potato which was genuinely amazing. I think we may have shared a few things including a gyudon then but all memories are clouded by that sweet potato.

Machiya takes us back to the West End and, more specifically, Panton Street near Leicester Square. It has a fairly pared down menu with a few specials but luckily, gyudon is a standard item - and is in fact boxed out as if it is a highlight of the menu. The general style of the place is casual and the menu is supplanted by a specials menu which is written by hand on a big piece of paper which is in keeping with the casual style. As it happens, there was little on the specials menu with it mainly being different cold drinks due to the slightly warm weather. Paul and I noticed that items we had ordered from specials menu before were now on the menu proper (including the aforementioned yaki imo sweet potato dish). Looking at the menu again, the items that jumped out were the ones we had eaten previously but I did want to try new things[4] so we ordered a side salad and grilled miso aubergine to go with the gyudon.

The food came out as it was ready but we waited for the gyudon before starting. The bowl was topped with a beautiful looking onsen egg and pre garnished with pickled ginger - there was nothing to add. So, we dug in. The flavour was, however, missing a bit and was not quite what was expected from the look. The mixture of onion and beef tasted a bit anaemic - lacking the bold flavour I expected and had probably not been marinated enough. This was actually a disappointing first mouthful. Diving in again gave the same impact of "is this it?" (and I don't mean the vibrancy of the Strokes' debut album) to the beef. In all honesty, the egg was excellent and a mouthful with a bit of egg and pickle was pretty nice but there was no getting away from the lack of saltiness of the meat. The sauce was fairly weak and the onions were more oniony than sweet as they were not cooked through. As it happened, the bowl wasn't that big either so it wasn't particularly filling and had a lot more rice as a ratio than I'd want too. The other dishes were far better, and the meal as a whole wasn't bad. The yaki imo still an astounding combination of yuzu, butter and wonderfully smooth sweet potato. The aubergine had a nice texture with walnut and a little kick from the garnish but as good as those dishes were, the main was disappointing and so I was a bit disappointed. The meal as a whole wasn't so voluminous either so I was left a bit unsatisfied[5] afterwards.
The thing about this project is that it is about gyudon so I feel bad that I can't particularly recommend a place that also happened to serve some exceptional food that wasn't gyudon. Service was quick, simple and easy and I will definitely return but I doubt I'll order the gyudon as a main (though it could work if shared) when I do. The location is really convenient, the food is generally good but it is too casual to linger there for a long time. With all that in mind, I do hope people go and have the yaki imo which is genuinely exceptional. The gyudon, less so.


Cost of gyudon: £9.50

Machiya
5 Panton St, London SW1Y 4DL



1. "ya" in this case just means shop and is a common suffix as in Matsuya.
2. In a sort of circuitous route. Paul mentioned to me the gyudon here when I asked about Japanese food around London which kicked off a nostalgic chat about Japan in general and also our first meeting there which revolved around gyudon.
3. And maybe food in that whole year, such was the quality.
4. I remember the chicken wings were really good, as was the yaki imo and I think we had some form of katsu so we didn't re-order (except the yaki imo, I'm not an idiot).
5. Satisfaction was gained by going on to have dessert at nearby Chin Chin Dessert Bar which was chocolate tacos with pineapple and habanero ice cream. It was pretty special.