Thursday 12 July 2018

ロン丼牛ドン / London Gyudon recap

Six down, an unknown number to go. That feels like a good time to do a quick recap of where w have been and the rankings of that. So here we go:

Friday 6 July 2018

ロン丼牛ドン / London Gyudon 06: eat Tokyo

Eat Tokyo, although it does have a genuinely terrible name, is a mini-chain of Japanese restaurants around London and so must be fairly successful. Having been before, I can totally understand why and have seen how popular it is with queues out of the door on a regular basis. The reason? Good value Japanese food (although not Misato level value) with a really broad menu makes this a very accessible place to try Japanese food. This also meant, buried in there somewhere, there was gyudon on the menu so it popped on to our list.
I'd not been to the Holborn branch and thought it'd be a good pick as it was in a slightly different area than other restaurants we'd been to - you have to find bits of variety in something like this. Meeting relatively early in an area not renowned for nightlife, I wasn't expecting to wait but it was already full at 6:45 so we waited, briefly, to be seated and given the menu. Taken upstairs, the space was quite nice but it was also fairly loud and with a plethora of languages too so I can't help but feel that it may have found itself into a guidebook (there was also quite a few suitcases downstairs being stored, suggesting similar) or two. We were seated next to some girls from China (I think from their speech patterns) who happened to be fairly raucous and it was very much that kind of place - we struggled to hear each other.
The menu was vast, illustrated and covered in plastic (which I think I have only seen at Japanese restaurants). Most of it seemed to be taken up by sushi and that also seemed the most popular choice looking around - which of course was irrelevant as we would be having a gyudon each. The sides we went for to go with it were spinach gyōza and pumpkin korokke - both items that I had not seen before.

The food came quickly and first, surprisingly, was the gyudon in large bowls and liberally sprinkled with spring onion to go with the small amount of pickled ginger. Accompanying the gyudon was miso soup which was unexpected as it had not been mentioned but it was a pleasant addition. The bowls were large but, also quite full which is often not the case so it was a good value dish but with quality vs quantity a constant balancing act, I was not holding out much hope. With the first mouthful, I was impressed with the rice and meat which was chunky and properly covered the rice. Was it gyudon or just beef on rice? I wasn't sure but I liked it. The second mouthful confused me though - it tasted different but I wasn't sure why. The beef was fatty and wasn't marinated fully, I thought… But then the third mouthful changed again and I liked it again, it was an odd experience but I could not quite comprehend. The gyōza arrived with the korokke providing a change of flavour and texture. Both of the sides were excellent with the spinach gyōza being like nothing I'd tried before. Bright green, I wasn't sure what to expect but they had the right texture and were paired with a nice chilli sauce too to give a kick. The pumpkin korokke was pretty sweet but had the right texture to go with the chewy gyudon. Oh, the gyudon? Well, the portion was massive so actually, the sides were almost like a respite. The meat was enjoyably cheap and fatty making it closer to the gyudon I remembered but it was probably a bit too chewy. Especially for the portion size which made it quite an effort for us both which is quite a surprise for 2 mains and 2 sides between two. It was very good value and the gyudon was good. One thing that I felt let it down was the rice - or more accurately the way the rice had been flavoured. Normally, with the beef at the top, the sauce seeps into the rice making it take on the flavour but to varying degrees as you go through the meal. In this case however, and almost certainly not prepared like that, it was as if the rice itself was marinated and the beef put on top so you did not get the changing of the rice. I think that contributed to the feeling of the gyudon being massive as it was, effectively, the same dish throughout rather than being altered by ratio. That is nitpicking a little though.

I was very pleasantly surprised by the gyudon and soup combination as it was great value and reminiscent enough of gyudons past to hit the spot. The restaurant itself was better than I remember but it is not a place to linger due to the noise and pace of it - it is great for groups with such an extensive menu. I would recommend the gyudon but, ideally, it would be better shared in some way in order to break up that wall of taste. Had we had half a bowl of gyudon each (and half a bowl of something else), that would be more satisfying for me. I'd had thought a more mixed meal would also be enjoyable - I think I'll return with a larger group some time. You should probably give it a go too.

Cost of gyudon (w/ soup): £9.00

Eat Tokyo (Holborn branch)
50 Red Lion Street, London, WC1R 4PF



World Cup 2018, Last 16

Well, that was a pretty interesting set of games…

France vs Argentina
We started with, arguably the pick of the games on paper - and maybe the best selection of players on the pitch at the world cup so far… As long as you consider their club form. Argentina had been woeful and scraped through to the knockout phases after an astonishing goal by Messi and a great one by Rojo. It is worth remembering that they had also been woeful in qualifying and scraped through after Messi did his thing again. France had also been pretty poor in the groups but were comfortably through as their opposition was weak. It was to be a battle of the Titans. Wheezing and unsure titans though they were.
Argentina started so nervily with incredibly poor control through the team, bouncing off feet as they went to control the ball, it meant that attacking momentum kept being lost. France looked to play on the counter and it became so easy to do so as, without much effort, Mbappe could run straight into the heart of the Argentina defence and then he looks very sharp against the oil tankers he was up against. It was a bit embarrassing. Angel Di Maria, in particular, was poor with and without the ball - not running on, not passing. Mascherano was playing well biting and breaking down, although commentary saying otherwise. Griezmann stayed deep, Pogba was strong but also deep and disciplined. It then changed, Di Maria scored an extraordinary goal and briefly became a different player, changing to become be direct and dangerous. But that, in itself suddenly opened up chances for France with holes in midfield that left the space for Mbappe to drive into.
Aregntina's defending was exposed and with Mbappe just given space to run in to, they had no ability to contain the midfield. Mbappe changed the game and this game could be very important in his development. Aregntina came back a little to give some respectability to the score but were just too ragged to match to France. France were ready to take advantage. Sometimes, that is all you need to do.

Uruguay vs Portugal
After the shambolic excitement of the previous game, I didn't expect a great deal from these two tight teams. But I was wrong, an early goal changed the nature of the game and meant an unexpected ebb and flow with both teams trying to whip through midfield to get to their danger men. The first Cavani goal was one of brutal beauty as he swished out a pass to Suarez who returned the favour with an absolutely brutal cross - the type you say you "just need to get something on that". And Cavani did, his face which was enough. It looked wonderful - almost a massive one-two. Portugal continued to believe and although they were not creating chances, and nor were Uruguay and this was a tense, tense match. It was one for the purists and it was wonderful to watch with high-level play and very little of the (exciting shambles of the previous game. Uruguay were deserved winners playing hard and clever by denying space and exploiting in the counter with great displays by Suarez and Cavani to hold up and create.

Spain vs Russia
The red army marches on, somehow. There's a part of me that thinks Spain got found out. Pique giving a penalty away doesn't surprise me, he would not give that away for his club and I felt the same thing as Ramos was caught fouling in the attack. These are players that are used to getting decisions. The Ramos decision ("pulled down" in the box) is almost always given and it was striking how quickly the commentary team gave him the foul but came round to the VAR decision quickly. Ramos always generates fouls, so I wonder if this type of defending is about to see its demise. Spain were all over Russia but created so few attempts actual attempts at goal and they ended up needing goals rather than the ball. They had plenty of the second but not much of the first. I'm not sure what to make of Russia, they still don't look very good but their heavy running does close down space quite competently. Even after that, they still had the energy after an (insipid) attack vs defence game to take the penalties without as much pressure.

Croatia vs Denmark
Croatia here were the clear quality in this game and had to go at Denmark to press that home. But Denmark scored first and early - within a minute. Croatia picked it up and scored within 4 mins. This game was going to be amazing. Yet, it never caught fire again, really with the tight and tense game that you get in tournament football. Croatia didn't play very well and so kind of got away with it by escaping with victory although they did get a last-gasp penalty in extra time too after breaking free. A last-gasp professional foul stopped a certain goal to be swapped for a penalty [1] which was badly missed by Modric - how would that play for the shootout? It was of no consequence, Croatia prevailed in the shootout and would face the hosts.

Brazil vs Mexico
Brazil were Brazil, as ever. Not the Brazil of breathless commentary, as ever. Mexico are a proper last 16 kind of team but always get found out at this stage and it is a bit of a shame that they can play so well for patches but not convert it. Mexico started brightly, finding gaps and going at Brazil to make the game exciting. But as time wore on, Mexico were also seemingly worn down and Brazil eventually made their quality tell. Each player for Brazil lived up to their own caricature with, most notably, Neymar frolicking and falling as he saw fit. Coutinho looks like the class of this Brazil side but he always plays second fiddle to Neymar as he made it all about him with a wonderful bit of Rivaldo-esque gamesmanship trying to get an opponent sent off. Even so, Brazil were good enough to despatch the Mexicans who lived up to their billing as a Last 16 team, did present a struggle of sorts but over 90mins did not offer enough. Brazil are clearly intimidating for a lot of opponents, and it is probably only when Brazil are seen as a normal team that they will get beaten.


Belgium vs Japan
The kinds of games dreams are made of. This had the look of the most lopsided game with a deeply unimpressive Japan side up against the highly fancied, and highly talented Belgium that had swatted aside their previous opponents. I've a soft spot for Japan but this was maybe the weakest I'd seen them in twenty years or so with only a couple of players that I considered "good". Well, teams are made with teamwork as well as individuals and Japan probed and prodded very effectively early on. Belgium were pushed deep, unable to sit, consider and create with Japan forceful and clever on the ball. The first half ended up even on score and on points with a bit of pressure from Belgium at the end. Come the second half though, and Japan scored early and deservedly and then, shockingly, scored decisively a few minutes later. The second involved great control and lay off by Kagawa (neat and excellent throughout) to Inui who smashed it true and proper into the bottom corner from range. The ball that doesn't spin is the ball that stays hit. Japan were in dreamland but they didn't lose focus and continued to control proceedings as Belgium became more and more hurried in their approach until they realised that, actually, apart from an advantage in football skill, they also had a physical advantage. And desperate times call for Robert Huth (or Gérard Pique) to be put up the top and to launch balls. Belgium didn't have Robert Huth but Marouane Fellaini would be a good substitute and he came on with his awkward elbowy style and changed the game. Japan couldn't cope with the simple ball into the box and with that Belgium turned the game to make it 2-2. This was going to extra time and the plucky Japanese would surely be beaten then. We didn't have to wait. From their own corner, Japan gave the ball away and Belgium launched forward at the end with an exhilarating counter attack. De Bruyne finally seeing gaps in front of him drove into the middle at pace with a quick transition through the phases into attack and from there, it was training ground stuff to slip in Chadli for the winner. Japan will remember this as a learning experience but will also wonder what could have been. Belgium will probably do the same. I doubt that they will be as complacent again.



Sweden vs Switzerland
Switzerland, the UEFA Mexico, found their level again as the knockout stages began. This was a pretty dull game with both teams being a fairly equal level but not really going for it. Sweden are resilient and have played a major part in the absence of the Dutch, Italians and Germans at this stage without necessarily playing in a remarkable way post-Zlatan. I think the world cup will miss Shaqiri as his driving runs and inventive passes are always interesting to watch even if they don't always come off. But other than that, there was little of note, to be honest. Sweden are very team-focused and have won by denying others the ability to play - it might be enough and they have to be proud to get to the last 8 when they are normally not ones to escape the group.

Colombia vs England
Oh, the tension. This is the first time England have prevailed in a shootout in the World Cup so it may have a bigger effect on their mentality than anything else but for anyone without skin in the game, this was a poor game of similar quality to the Swedish one - so that quarter final does not hold much hope for the neutrals. I am not, quite, a neutral but am less "invested" in England these days. Colombia were weakened by the loss of James and seemed out of the game for the first hour or so, seemingly more concerned with slowing the game down and creating tension with niggly hacks and complaints. It was a bit "dark arts" but not entirely unexpected. England got yet another set-piece goal via a Harry Kane penalty fairly early and looked to "game manage" the match out with almost no attacking verve at all. There was precious little, from either team, guile or invention with England in particular happy to pass the ball in deep positions and not threaten. It is a quandary as Alli and Sterling in particular are well known to be fleet of foot and mind so to attack without really offering them options was odd. For that reason, I thought it was a bit funny that Colombia scored a late equaliser to take us to extra time and penalties. England would eventually prevail, but there seemed little urgency to press home their advantage which may have been fashionable 8 years with the Spanish model but we've seen where Spain have ended up after playing as if goals were beneath them. A scare, definitely, but will it be a spur?

UEFA vs CONMEBOL
UEFA teams have done well here, with 6 of the 8 coming from Europe (2 from CONMEBOL). Which might not be that surprising but when that does not include 3 of the 4 semi-finalists of Euro 2016, it suggests quite some depth. This is also after the exits of Germany, Spain, Portugal from the World Cup and the non-qualifications of Netherlands, Wales and Italy. I'm not absolutely sure, but I feel like the expansion of the Euros to 24 teams, to give UEFA teams more experience may be a factor here and even some of the terrible performances at Euro 2016 by England have probably helped them here.

VAR
VAR is performing very well throughout the tournament and FIFA should be happy with this extra support team for the referee being used quite effectively. The television symbol is already becoming increasingly common from players but I do feel that the tournament has been quite clean in relative terms in spite of the low number of red cards.

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1. Penalty kicks have an xG of 0.8 suggesting they are missed 20% of the time - so this is a fairly simple swap/sacrifice for that 20%. It ended up with Croatia going through anyway, but I cannot see how this would have the same level of disgust as when Luis Suarez did the same thing in 2010.