When I got to Dubai, I may not have been full of plans but I was full of preconceptions. I had been before - in the spring of 1999 and positive impressions had not been left. That may have been the fact it was basically a day trip but I was even less well travelled at that point so it should have left some memories. I mean, other than Ikea. I probably should have noted my thoughts down...
I knew it'd be pretty different this time - as much me and my circumstances as the city[1].
Once I got to the airport, I was expecting rz4 and 5 to be there but I could not see them[2] - and as I'd lost my phone a week earlier [link] I could not call. I got online and sent a message but I just waited. Not for too long but, as with my first impressions in transit, the space seemed vast for the use it had. Once I saw rz4, I sidled over and we greeted each other in that nonchalant way that can happen with people you feel close to. I'd said I'd meet them somewhere closer to town but they persuaded me that if they came, we could "start" quicker so we went to their car... I say car but it was massive - bigger than I had imagined a couple would have. My bag went in the back and rattled around like a thought in my empty head. It only had two doors even though it was massive.
I said I had no plans and we made some there and then. By "made", of course I mean we started on the road and decided on the road that food would be nice - off to that bastion of modern culture - the mall, and being Dubai, it was definitely going to be the (something, something) biggest in the world [link].
It is rare for me to be in a car at all, but also to spend so much time looking forward is something I only usually experience if I'm lucky on the 263[3]. The road we were on was very wide and very straight. From what I saw of Dubai, this trunk road linked the whole emirate up and it was essentially a rectangular city with this road going through it. On one side was the (unseen) coast and the other had the vaguely famous Dubai metro snaking through roads vertically. This was to be a common thread.
I wasn't particularly hungry so I had a coffee whilst rz4+5 had some actual lunch. It was nice catching up though one nice thing on the trip as a whole was how familiar it felt with all the rzs. This is not always the case but I find it happens on holiday for me.
Dubai Mall
The mall was, indeed, vast and inside there was a shark pool (aquarium does not sound as good) of sorts with people swimming inside. There were also other bits of "art" to break up the shops a bit.
We were quite near the Burj Khalifa (which is the tallest building in the world - by quite some margin) and so we made our way there and waited for the water display which is spectacular in its own way. There are actually a number of different displays that it cycles through at regular intervals so we ended up seeing quite a few of them and the mixture of water, music and lights was quite the attraction. Although we had a café seat, many many people were standing around to see it all 4.
In the evening, after a stopoff "home", we made our way to rz5's friend's restaurant which was by the marina. Of course, we drove there as did everyone else and there was quite the selection of expensive and shiny cars being valet parked in nearby hotels with plenty of the beautiful5 people on nights out. In many ways, it was nice that so many made so much effort and with the heat as it was, there was a lot of flesh on display in this conservative country to go and have some drinks.
We parked (after getting a little stuck in a sand pit with steep entrances) and were seated next to the water where we could appreciate the flipside of the constant air-conditioning - all the heat that is taken out of the environment is then, essentially pumped out again to the exterior so we were in a very warm, and noisy space. We moved. It is only now that I notice the prevalence of these vents around London now, but they are a lot warmer.
The food was great, and satisfying, as was the conversation and environment. Strangely, for such a car-centric place, you don't actually see cars a lot of the time as the massive buildings have massive car parks too so often hidden away. I was struck by the number of young children out and playing as it was past midnight by this point but it was a very relaxing kind of atmosphere and family-friendly by the water. Lights reflecting on water is always calming.
Dubai Creek
The next morning, we made our way to the "older" part of town with older boats and a more traditional (though it had that heritage feel actually, of refurbished tradition) feel (near the Dubai Creek). I also wanted to see a souk of some kind (though it was basically a market) which looked suitably dark and dusty.
The water was so clear and the sun so bright that it felt very clean and stylised. I actually really enjoyed the little boat ride (the boats are called "abra")which is very cheap (1 dirham I think) and feels quite cool due to being close to the water. It is not really suitable for genuine mass transport so it is a bit of a leisure trip but it may be suitable for commuting. The souk was near one of the ports and so we had a little wander (and classically misunderstood shop signs are a staple of any enjoyable holiday) before heading back for another bit of mall-based dinner where I met a friend of rz4+5 (it would be rz6) as it was quick, easy and had a lot of variety in a food court. This was so that we had time to be back home for the dune bashing pickup which I'd be going to with rz5 (rz4 was busy, and had been before).
Dune Bashing
For the "dune bashing" someone came to collect us (myself and rz5) and we were driven to the desert. It felt kind of isolated and there were only the four of us in the 4WD (A Toyota Landcruiser) with the driver so it was pretty comfortable. Seeing the desert stretch out was actually pretty eerie and the dunes were strangely calming. I think, due to the shifting sands, the dunes seem untouched quite soon after they had been driven over so it is a constantly evolving view. It wasn't peaceful for long - unbeknownst to me, this was to be a quite a convoy of cars. And we would see quite a lot of other convoys too.
Driving along (belted in of course, the cars have been known to flip quite regularly), the dunes were quite slippy in places and steep too so as we drove along the top, you could see almost vertically down. It was a lot of fun, like a roller-coaster but slow and jerky - maybe like a "Mouse".
The dune bashing was not the only part of the "dune bashing" and we were later taken to a little fort (not sure exactly) for further entertainment. We got taken to a camel pen for some petting and photos6 and were then left to our own devices until dinner. Inside the dinner bit, where tables and stools had been set up outside, under the darkening blue skies, with areas for fancy dress, falconry, drinks and snack. It was pretty nice in there, relaxed and "old-fashioned" with little artificial light and no real mod-cons. There was also an area to take a camel ride - an opportunity I didn't want to miss. After waiting for a bit, waiting mainly while people jumped queues, we were allowed to "board" and then walked along for a short while. I enjoyed it and I was told by rz5 that this was the most civilised of the dune bashing he'd done.
The food was fairly standard Arabic fare of kebabs, bread and dips but it was good and we also got table service. That was followed, and it was after sundown now by some further dancing entertainment. Some of the women from the crowd were invited onto the stage to join the dancer and so learnt a little - there was also one dancer who _just_ basically span around for minutes. It looked good in photos at least (if held steadily).
We were driven back home too which was a good tourist service actually - makes it accessible for those without cars too.
Friends and chat
I then went to meet another friend, well an old friend that I'd not seen for a while. It was already quite late (about midnight) but I was glad to see her and her husband - though her daughter was understandably sleeping. She lived "downtown" near the Burj but her husband had bought the flat off-plan and had seen the area grow from a dusty bowl to what it was now. The view was pretty impressive though I took no photos, rather stupidly.
The next morning, rz5 had to go off to work but rz4 didn't, and so I had a pleasant breakfast with her which was probably the only time we spent together. My only regret was missing out on meeting with one other person[7]. Always fun and pretty tasty food too.
I knew it'd be pretty different this time - as much me and my circumstances as the city[1].
I said I had no plans and we made some there and then. By "made", of course I mean we started on the road and decided on the road that food would be nice - off to that bastion of modern culture - the mall, and being Dubai, it was definitely going to be the (something, something) biggest in the world [link].
It is rare for me to be in a car at all, but also to spend so much time looking forward is something I only usually experience if I'm lucky on the 263[3]. The road we were on was very wide and very straight. From what I saw of Dubai, this trunk road linked the whole emirate up and it was essentially a rectangular city with this road going through it. On one side was the (unseen) coast and the other had the vaguely famous Dubai metro snaking through roads vertically. This was to be a common thread.
I wasn't particularly hungry so I had a coffee whilst rz4+5 had some actual lunch. It was nice catching up though one nice thing on the trip as a whole was how familiar it felt with all the rzs. This is not always the case but I find it happens on holiday for me.
Dubai Mall
The mall was, indeed, vast and inside there was a shark pool (aquarium does not sound as good) of sorts with people swimming inside. There were also other bits of "art" to break up the shops a bit.
We were quite near the Burj Khalifa (which is the tallest building in the world - by quite some margin) and so we made our way there and waited for the water display which is spectacular in its own way. There are actually a number of different displays that it cycles through at regular intervals so we ended up seeing quite a few of them and the mixture of water, music and lights was quite the attraction. Although we had a café seat, many many people were standing around to see it all 4.
We parked (after getting a little stuck in a sand pit with steep entrances) and were seated next to the water where we could appreciate the flipside of the constant air-conditioning - all the heat that is taken out of the environment is then, essentially pumped out again to the exterior so we were in a very warm, and noisy space. We moved. It is only now that I notice the prevalence of these vents around London now, but they are a lot warmer.
The food was great, and satisfying, as was the conversation and environment. Strangely, for such a car-centric place, you don't actually see cars a lot of the time as the massive buildings have massive car parks too so often hidden away. I was struck by the number of young children out and playing as it was past midnight by this point but it was a very relaxing kind of atmosphere and family-friendly by the water. Lights reflecting on water is always calming.
Dubai Creek
The next morning, we made our way to the "older" part of town with older boats and a more traditional (though it had that heritage feel actually, of refurbished tradition) feel (near the Dubai Creek). I also wanted to see a souk of some kind (though it was basically a market) which looked suitably dark and dusty.
Dune Bashing
For the "dune bashing" someone came to collect us (myself and rz5) and we were driven to the desert. It felt kind of isolated and there were only the four of us in the 4WD (A Toyota Landcruiser) with the driver so it was pretty comfortable. Seeing the desert stretch out was actually pretty eerie and the dunes were strangely calming. I think, due to the shifting sands, the dunes seem untouched quite soon after they had been driven over so it is a constantly evolving view. It wasn't peaceful for long - unbeknownst to me, this was to be a quite a convoy of cars. And we would see quite a lot of other convoys too.
Driving along (belted in of course, the cars have been known to flip quite regularly), the dunes were quite slippy in places and steep too so as we drove along the top, you could see almost vertically down. It was a lot of fun, like a roller-coaster but slow and jerky - maybe like a "Mouse".
The food was fairly standard Arabic fare of kebabs, bread and dips but it was good and we also got table service. That was followed, and it was after sundown now by some further dancing entertainment. Some of the women from the crowd were invited onto the stage to join the dancer and so learnt a little - there was also one dancer who _just_ basically span around for minutes. It looked good in photos at least (if held steadily).
We were driven back home too which was a good tourist service actually - makes it accessible for those without cars too.
Friends and chat
I then went to meet another friend, well an old friend that I'd not seen for a while. It was already quite late (about midnight) but I was glad to see her and her husband - though her daughter was understandably sleeping. She lived "downtown" near the Burj but her husband had bought the flat off-plan and had seen the area grow from a dusty bowl to what it was now. The view was pretty impressive though I took no photos, rather stupidly.
The next morning, rz5 had to go off to work but rz4 didn't, and so I had a pleasant breakfast with her which was probably the only time we spent together. My only regret was missing out on meeting with one other person[7]. Always fun and pretty tasty food too.
And with that, it was over. The plane was similar to all others, I had problems getting from Heathrow back home due to engineering works so I felt very much back into the swing of things as soon as I landed...
London, I missed you but I'll forget why within the week, I'm sure.
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| Dubai 2013 - click for photo album |
1. I was much younger, travelling with my father and also visiting my uncle in Abu Dhabi so we spent a short time in Dubai which was not really within my control. I remember little of the city but I do remember seeing a goat's throat being slit on a TV screen at some meat stall and feeling a little sick.↩
2. Although I had no phone, I did contact them via PS Vita, but they did not receive the message until after they saw me anyway.↩
3. London bus route: Barnet - Holloway↩
4. I can sometimes be a little sniffy about modern, urban tourist delights but this would be, for a lot of people from smaller towns and villages, a very impressive sight.↩
5. I don't use the adjective beautiful very often and I use it here, very much within the phrase "beautiful people" rather than people that are beautiful. I actually really hate the cheapening of the word - especially when used to describe mobile phone applications or design. For me, beauty is beyond the aesthetic and needs to have an emotional and moving element. In this case, it refers, specifically to a particular look of being carefully dressed in expensive looking clothes and designer attire.↩
6. As many people know, I am not a huge fan of animals and so approached the camels with some trepidation. Our driver may have sensed this and made me jump, entertaining carloads of people, by making a camel like sound. For some reason in groups, I always seem to make myself known.↩
7. A When I was passing through Dubai on my way to Singapore, other than being charmed by the floor tiling, I also sent a message on social media to mention I was in DXB and received a message back from a cousin whom it would have been great to meet up with... but they were away and although I left a message, they received it 12 hours later and so our chance had gone. I was a bit sad about that as she was very helpful in pointing things out and I felt really rather welcomed.↩
8. The metro stations in town are less well crafted and require long walks as they are running next to the road and have clearly been designed as something to see from outside rather than be used.↩
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