This is related to a trip to Central Europe as thought of here.
How to get there
Photos of day 1 are here:
1. And it is so often a false economy, had I gone with a flight from a decent airport, although the flight would possibly be more expensive, travel to and from the airport would be a lot cheaper, I would not need to stock up on snacks and drinks at airport prices and I would get an actual service.↩
2. Out of choice in Moscow as a precocious child. My mother asked me what I was doing and I apparently responded that I obviously didn't have glasses in my baby photo so it was better.↩
3. Well, section of line from Paddington to Farringdon, as it is presently the 150th anniversary of the tube in London, I have been steeping myself in that history including a steam train run along that original path.↩
How to get there
I am not the biggest of flying fans, at the best of times and 820 am is not the best of times. Luton, conveniently, is on Thameslink as is a local station of mine and so it was a fairly easy, if early, connection to Luton. Not Luton Airport, of course, but Luton Airport Parkway which connects via a bus to the airport itself.
This, apparently, wilful desire to make things difficult runs through the whole airport experience which is horrible and a real departure from the treatment in the last few airports I've been to. I think this is one of the worst aspects of (possibly only low cost British) air travel as it often just feels as if the whole thing is deigned to be terrible to extract a little more money from you (incidentally, my return ticket is booked to Heathrow and I never thought I would be pleased to be going there) by getting you to upgrade wherever possible. In the one and a half hours at the airport, I stood up and queued for the vast majority and it leaves a sour taste in the mouth - though judging by the numbers of people there, it is a taste we will put up with to save a few pounds[1].
The flight itself, on the Hungarian Wizz Air, was not too bad - full and sleepy.
Landing at Budapest was fairly smooth and I needed to walk along the tarmac to get to the terminal (through a caged walkway) which always feels a little more exciting than it should. Getting "landside" was quick although passport control did ask me to remove my glasses which I have not done since I was aged 5 for security [2]. And then the question of what next with no plans or idea...
The tourist information desk was apparently helpful and they provided me with a map and sold me a "Budapest Card" [link] which was valid for a few attractions and public transport for the next day - which seemed fair enough for a weekend trip. And I then made my way to the public transport which was, surprisingly, a bus to the nearest metro station - not hugely efficient and a bit like Luton... I expected more as I knew Budapest has the second oldest underground metro system in Europe (or the first in continental Europe as the PR would put).
Finding things to do
I was due to be at my accommodation at 2pm and it was my first time staying in this type of accommodation - essentially a flat in Budapest - and so the owners had to meet me. It was a lot less flexible than a hotel and so I'm not sure it was a good idea (for my circumstances) although the place was OK when I was there. There was also a tour at 2pm around Pest which I wanted to join so I called the hostel [Mandy] to delay my arrival - and then instead moved it forward on her request. Although her explanations and friendliness were appreciated (along with her young son) when I got there, I did want to get a move on to the tour - which I promptly missed.
I guess those are the perils of trying to fit stuff in unless you have a very good itinerary but I had a quick walk around the area (Deak Fr.) and found another tour being run for free and thought of joining it later when I was not on Budapest Card time.
And so, again, what to do next?
Heroes Square
My decision was to make my way to the Fine Arts Museum [link] which is near the Heroes Square which needed travel on the Millennium line (I won't lie, it was a factor), which is only beaten by the "Circle Line"[3] for age in Europe which was pretty interesting. As the line has been left almost untouched, I found it a real throwback to my imagination of the age unlike, for example the endless forward progress of the Underground. Each station has a separate entrance/exit for the two directions and no underground passage between them. As the line is essentially along one street (Andrassy), you get out and cross the road to go to the other platform. Each station is barely underground at all and it feels like you are only one storey down so it is quite close to being an underground tram rather than train. The carriages are quite small, and short and the whole experience is rather twee actually. Inside the carriages, there is not a huge amount of space and the look of old, but not quite "heritage". I enjoyed it and the details, even down to the very short door open times and the grating doors closing klaxon and red light. The doors actually even start opening when the train is still in motion.
As the stations are close together, and the trains quite short and small, the frequency is quite high at every two minutes and, as i understand it, this was the case even when it started. It is actually a very simple system with it being an almost entirely straight line from Heroes Square to the centre of Pest.
Although I went for the Museum of Fine Arts, I always think it is worth a little wander and so I did around the park a little before making my way to the Museum which faces onto the spectacular Heroes Square. The vast square reminded me a little of Tienanmen although it is not that similar. There are some lovely statues of various heroes on one side and the open space is strangely alluring. I honestly have no idea why but it is very inviting.
I found the Museum itself only moderately interesting but I was told, upon showing my card, that it was free to get in anyway that weekend. As were a lot of the major exhibitions that were part of the Budapest card. I think the tourist office should have told me that and I felt a little tricked. Apparently helpful, as I said.
The rest of the park was superb, with a lot of interesting walks and views in amongst the amazing architecture. It was also quite busy as there was some type of event in part of the park - which I guess links it back to its inception (though not the event itself).
Bathing and Relaxation
The Budapest Card was not of much use thus far (other than the travel) but it did include entrance to a spa - St Lukacs Medicinal Baths and Swimming Pool - something that was very appealing. Budapest is, supposedly, known as a city of spas but nobody had told me, and so I can only assume that it either was, or it just isn't. I came to really enjoy spas ("onsens" and "sentos") while I was in Japan and they are remarkably lovely there, and so I was looking forward to it. Unfortunately, when I got there, I realised that I did not have the appropriate clothing - and this was not a concept I was familiar with. Onsens are designed for bathing, and bathing is done without clothing. I had checked what the situation was in Budapest, or thought I had, and read a few comments, from mainly American women, about how they really do bathe naked. The changing room was not quite as I expected and so I left - what a waste. Maybe at other baths, it would have been OK.
And so, again, what to do next?
Between Buda and Pest, there is a river and also a bit of land called Margaret Island which acts as a relaxation space for locals - and this is connected via two bridges to the main city. There is not bout a great deal there but it is a green space in a city with precious little green space and so is popular. There were plenty of couples (well, I assume they were...) and groups of people lolling about, lazily enjoying the sun and the fountains.
Photos of day 1 are here:
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| Budapest 2013 day 1 - click for photo album |
1. And it is so often a false economy, had I gone with a flight from a decent airport, although the flight would possibly be more expensive, travel to and from the airport would be a lot cheaper, I would not need to stock up on snacks and drinks at airport prices and I would get an actual service.↩
2. Out of choice in Moscow as a precocious child. My mother asked me what I was doing and I apparently responded that I obviously didn't have glasses in my baby photo so it was better.↩
3. Well, section of line from Paddington to Farringdon, as it is presently the 150th anniversary of the tube in London, I have been steeping myself in that history including a steam train run along that original path.↩
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